With over one hundred years of history and counting, Cartier has a wealth of iconic watch designs in its archive. Updated versions of its most iconic collections like the Santos, Tank, and Pasha are in production today, and through its Cartier Privé series, the brand continues to revive past models in small quantities, to the delight of its fans. With the rise of vintage watch-hunting and trading on #WatchTok, these designs are more relevant than ever. Here are five vintage Cartier watch designs that you might not know.
Cloche de Cartier
First produced in the 1920s, the Cartier Cloche, or "bell" in English, was originally created as a brooch watch, to be pinned to clothing. The design is characterized by a bell-shaped case with the dial rotated 90 degrees, so that the XII marker is located next to the crown and the logo is turned sideways when worn on the wrist. While original 1920s models are priceless today, the most recent Cartier Privé release will set you back a more modest $35,000.
Diabolo de Cartier
First produced in the 1990's, this rare design is Cartier's take on an 'officer's watch,' a design originating in the trenches of World War I. The Diabolo is characterized by its clean round dial, large crown (with a shape resembling a Diabolo juggling prop), and lugs with protruding screws (which resemble the devil's horns). It also features a subtly guillochéd dial with a wave pattern that is visible up close. Today you can find a vintage example for under $10,000.
Ceinture de Cartier
Yet another product of the 1920s, the Cartier Ceinture, or "belt," features a distinctive octagonal bezel with a tiered case and a flat crown that sits inside of a cutout in the case. It was revived in the 1970s but hasn't yet been re-released through the Cartier Privé collection. You can easily find one for under $5,000.
Cartier Roadster
The Cartier Roadster was produced between 2001 and 2011, making it more 'neo-vintage' than vintage. With a tonneau-shaped case design inspired by the speedometer of the 1950s Porsche 356, this is one of the sportiest Cartier designs you'll find. During its all-too-brief lifetime, both the men's and women's versions of the watch were popular and you can easily find a preowned model today for under $5,000.
Tank Chinoise
Originally introduced in 1922, the Tank Chinoise updates the classic design language of the Tank with its distinctive horizontal brancards extending horizontally above and below the watch face. In the French tradition of Chinoiserie, these brancards are meant to evoke the appearance of East Asian temple gates. While the original Chinoise featured a square case, the most recent release through Cartier Privé is rectangular. The Privé release will run you over $30,000, but you can find a vintage model with a quartz movement for under $10,000.
These are just a sampling of the watches from Cartier's rich history. For enthusiasts of the brand, there are many more captivating vintage designs to consider, from the quirky Octagonal Santos to the clever Crash de Cartier to the ultra-rare Cartier Pebble. With celebrities like Tyler, The Creator and Timothée Chalamet embracing the brand, their contemporary designs are sure to become the classics of tomorrow. Which design is your favorite?